![]() The negative diode is wrong way around so will do nothing, if the other way around the alternator will short via top diode. I dont see how Bruce Harveys circuit can work. Contemplating,reg-micro connected across the 24v to switch a NPN fast for the Alt / solar input - with Alt / solar feed connected pos and neg to free battery terminals - but that was a disaster. I tried a buck booster to 29v but found one battery would start taking most the charge. As people mentioned, you'll need about 28 volts at the output to charge 24V system (a battery is made of cells, lead-acid cell is described here: ).Īnother possibility (most feasible) is to buy a couple-hundred watt invertor and a 24V standalone charger (designed to work with 100-240VAC depending on your location). If you can find such a transformer, you will only need the rectifier/regulator box from a 24V alternator.ĭC-DC converter is a good option, but again, it has to be designed as a lead-acid battery charger, not just a power source. If this is the case, you could use a step-up transformer with 1:2 ratio, but it has to be designed for this kind of application as changing RPM changes the alternator output frequency and consequently would change the output voltage of a transformer. Most (car) alternators produce AC that goes through a rectifier and a regulator. Made for a nasty tar puddle in the parking lot.Well, the best option is, of course, to just buy a 24-volt alternator. The battery boiled over and acid was dissolving the plastic, paint and undercoating. When I came out of the grocery store smoke was coming out from under the hood. The car didn't have idiot lights and I neglected to read the gauge. Many years ago I had a voltage regulator in my car go bad and the voltage spiked. I certainly would not want to add any voltage to an existing system. Handles 80-Amps Continuous and 150-Amp Surges. 80 Amps at 12V Continuous Power Handling. Does not create a voltage drop to the second battery like conventional isolators. Low voltage drop due to the use of high efficiency Schottky diodes. Great for isolating a second batter making it dedicated to the stereo system. Discharging the accessory battery for example will not result in also discharging the starter battery. I'm not electrical saavy, so I don't know about ACRs and changing diodes. Argodiode Battery Isolators allow simultaneous charging of two or more batteries from one alternator, without connecting the batteries together. They would be most useful for a trolling motor battery, where the "motor" does not charge the battery. There are constant duty solenoids (BIG relays) and there are automatic relays. You merely plug them into a wall plug in the garage after your boat trip. Unless the alternator's voltage regulator monitors the voltage, ideally, at the battery, or not quite as ideally, downstream of the diode isolator the batteries will never see a full charge. I have seen bass boats and others with dual batteries that have a "charger' permanently mounted in the boat. "Smart" merely means that it is 3-stage and it varies the voltage according to the state of the battery. Its the kinda thing you have in your basement so you can charge your boat and tractor batteries in the Winter. The ALT output lead was connected to the input of the isolator and no other wires were changedĬlick to expand.The "battery chargers" that I have are all 120 volts. Note: I had a 3-bank isolator installed by Formula which charged all banks using an isolator. The ALT output would go to 15.2V which its not designed to do Also, only the bank the sense is connected to, will be the only Bat that will see the 14.5V. Moving the sense lead to the battery will increase the voltage output to get the batteries to see closer to 14.5V, but this also may cause an issue with the ALT. ![]() With the isolator the starter post and the motor would only see around 13.8V (14.5 - 0.7) The ALT output lead normally goes to the starter post, but with an isolator the output would be connected to the the isolator. Each diode has a voltage drop of 0.7VĪ fully changed battery should read 13.7V after being removed from charge and having sat for couple hoursĪlternator and battery chargers would normally output around 14.5VĪlternator output is controlled by the sense lead which is the purple wire which is part of the engine harness.
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